Each year the Melbourne fashion calendar flicks on the runway switch for the Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival (VAMFF). In its 20th year, the 2016 showcase entertained the fashion enthusiasts with a week-long schedule of the latest Autumn/Winter ready-to-wear pieces from some of the nations leading men’s and women’s brands. With runway shows, workshops and industry seminars, Melbourne city was a wash of fashionistas and fashionistos.
But, there was one primary reason I flew down south for the event and that was for none other than the GQ Australia Menswear Runway show; one of the most highly anticipated shows of the week being the sole menswear runway event.
With some strong street style footing the concrete of the forecourt and Festival Plaza which held location to the Festival Bar along with live DJ sets, sipping a beverage pre-show while gazing at the backdrop of the magenta lit Royal Exhibition Building and trend spotting of the fashion elite, all added to the electric anticipation of the show to come.
My suiting choice for the evening was by Australian designer Brent Wilson; a peaked lapel, 6 button double-breasted soft choc check suit, teamed with a black silk pocket square by Lanvin and Emporio Armani patent black lace-ups.
The modern, glass lined structure that is the Melbourne Museum played host for the evening and the minimalist setting couldn’t have been more on point. VAMFF’s GQ show presented by Asahi Super Dry included the warming AW/16 threads from some of Australia’s most celebrated designers and brands; Arthur Galan AG, M.J. Bale, Aquila, Calibre, Dom Bagnato, Jack London and TY-LR all showing us what will look best for the wintery weeks ahead as we go from desk to drinks in our sartorial stride.
Kicking off this sophisticated spectacle was debonair label Dom Bagnato, which played on layering pattern and texture. Windowpane and checks of silver and mulberry, micro checks of navy, along with hues of plum and paisley print ties which complemented the runway looks.
M.J Bale was second to hit the runway and with a campaign name of “The Return Of A Well-Dressed Gentleman” the “masculine elegance” shone through with single and double-breasted blazers of bold red and navy checks, turtleneck and cable knitwear layering, luxe velvet fabrics and traditional wintery grey’s; all while playing with mixed blazer and trouser (rather then full suiting) combos making a great influence this winter.
It was Calibre’s turn to showcase and no gent was walking without the perfect accessory be it a lapel pin, scarf or leather weekender. With textured fabrics of mohair knits along with suede making a stamp in the cut of a long trench and biker jacket, stone coloured chinos and blazers of houndstooth where also highlights. Velvet blazer, bowtie and denim jean combo’s once again proved the direction of mixing and matching to make the perfect arrangement.
Brand new to the VAMFF runway was contemporary label TY-LR. With a forth going vision to be “synonymous with effortless style”, it delivered this in spades; clean lines and understated luxury, all pinned to minimalism. With not a checked blazer in sight, suiting remained simplistic while leather biker jackets casually covered the crew knit sweater for the “wearable modern day dandy” aesthetic.
Firmly planting its feet well past footwear and adding to it assortment of slick shoes, Aquila’s attire strutted in shades of plum suiting and eggplant shirting, with monochrome “salt & pepper” outerwear. “The season’s key looks were based on clean lines and contemporary tailoring, but not as you’d expect. Grey suits, chinos and shirts proved that grey really is the new black for men this season.” Checked bombers and leather backpacks inserted an edge of “Ivy League cool”.
The rock star label of the night, Jack London, was next and in fine fashion form, kept to its true heritage of rock and roll meets classic tailoring. Slim fitting apparel, with once again mixing making the match for a modern yet bold gent. You can always look forward to a fun statement piece or two from Jack London and the silver sequence tuxedo jacket shimmering down the runway demanded attention. Animal printed shirting, tan waistcoats and burgundy suiting really spoke of a uniquely alluring collection.
Arthur Gallan AG, closed the show in true runway style. Dynamic pieces of a long leather coat with velvet once again making a mark and proving to be the quintessential fabrication this winter in the form in bombers, trimming and blazers be it in single and double-breasted styles. Brocade fabrics adding a refined, elegant flair followed grey suiting with black suede elbow patchwork adding fine detailing to the AG collection.
As the beats that filled the room slowly diffused, the crowd’s applause (along with few cheers and whistles) began to replace the tunes which brought us all to the end to the show and what a brilliant one it was! Strong pieces across all brands ensuring we will all look our best in the cooler calendar months. Can’t wait for next years show!
Till next time, stay dapper gents.
Robbie – Dapper Lounge
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