LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S – A/W 19 RUNWAY REPORT

It’s a new year and with it comes the latest fashion trends for the coming season for all to lust over. London Fashion Week Men’s (LFWM) is the first each year on the runway calendar from Jan 5 to Jan 7 and with a lineup including over 50 runway shows and presentation, it’s a jam-packed schedule of trend spotting.
The British fashion scene has long championed creativity and innovation and with England having no shortage of inspiration, British style is always a big player on the global stage. After filtering through each day the full LFWM lineup, here are my top three designers from the trending week that was.

Founded in 1867, London-based tailoring brand has collaborated with Barbour, J. Crew and even making threads for Sir Winston Churchill. Following the entry of Patric Grant as owner and Creative Director in 2009, E. Tautz underwent a re-brand and hasn’t looked back since.

Following many seasons of presentations, the award-winning designer returned to the runway with a Christian Louboutin collaboration alongside fluidity in his new season silhouettes. His 2019 Autumn / Winter collection was inspired by Oscar Niemeyer’s pavilions in Ibirapuera Park São Paulo and the jungle of Brazil. Showcasing wide-leg pleated trousers, slouchy shoulder shirting and graphic details were woven into outerwear, bold stripes and checks also appeared. “There are all these amazing concrete pavilions with lots of mad geometry, all really textured, and when you look at it you see angles in front of angles in front of angles,” said Grant.

Colour inspiration feed through the range following Grant’s walk through the jungle and came in the form of emerald green, burnt orange and mustard. Classic hues of navy and taupe paired with crimson created the right elevated colour clash of strong styling. His collaboration with Christian Louboutin saw models sporting half-moccasin, half-ballet-flat slip-on’s to complete each look.

See more from E. Tautz here.

Back in 1926 Eric Kent and Dorothy Curwen debuted Kent & Curwen’s first range, fast forward to today and creative director Daniel Kearns with co-owner David Beckham showed a collection that’s described as “sartorial streetwear” by Kearns.

Held at a heritage Arts and Crafts manor, loose-fitting military tailoring draped over both female, and male models hit the runway. Kearns intent “was to make the pieces accessible and wearable  across genders and to respond to the women posting pictures of themselves wearing Kent & Curwen clothing.”

Patterns of harlequin, argyle and checks formed features for knitwear and jackets, while bold red and burgundy stripes made suiting and coats pop; one of my favourite pieces from the range. Forest green, aubergine, deep navy and khaki added an appealing colour palette for the coming colder months. Like many other designers, oversized and boxy silhouettes having been an increasing choice of cut for a little while now and were also prevalent in this collection; proving the relaxed cut isn’t going anywhere.

Catch more pics from the Kent & Curwen show here.

Sustainability was a key feature in this show with Oliver Spencer once again working with eco-wools, proving fashion can look on-point and help the environment in which it derives its sources.

Established in 2002, Oliver Spencer’s collections have a great wearability factor with a relaxed yet contemporary character. The Royal Academy of Arts was the stage for this show with chunky cable sweaters and roll-necks with thumbholes producing a neat touch. Bomber jackets teamed with formal trousers make for a practical and marketable combo. Velvet textures in deep sandy shades, cobalt blues and moss greens, gave suiting and bombers jackets a luxe finish; the double-breasted velvet suits a favourite of mine from this show.

Shearling collar details continue this winter season, with chevron graphic elements adding a feature to knitted pieces. Saffron yellow paired with deep navy looks to be a trending combo from a few designers the season, with classic checks fashioned to tailored coats will keep gents warm.

See more from Oliver Spencer here.

Daniel W. Fletcher was another designer who produced some great pieces for A/W 19 and well worth checking out. For the full LFMW schedule head here.

Stay dapper gents.
Robbie – Dapper Lounge